To Stitch or Not to Stitch? The Art of Fitting a Hat Liner

​For many hatmakers and enthusiasts, the "hidden" part of a hat—the liner—is just as important as the felt itself. While it adds a touch of luxury and protects the hat from hair oils, there is a lively debate on the best way to secure it.

​Should you reach for the glue gun, a needle and thread, or nothing at all? Here is a breakdown of the best practices gathered from the community.

​The "Floating" Liner: Why Less is More

​Many experienced makers argue that you don't actually need to attach a liner. A well-fitted liner can sit perfectly inside a hat without a single drop of glue or a stitch.

​The Benefits of Removability: Leaving a liner unattached allows you to take it out for cleaning or to swap it out. For summer hats, removing the liner entirely can help with breathability.

​The Steaming Trick: To get a perfect fit, place your liner over a wooden hat block of a similar shape. Give it a good steam to mirror the shape of the hat it’s going into. Once it takes that "set," it will nestle into your hat and stay put on its own.

​The Case Against Glue

​While mass-produced hats (like some modern Akubras or bowlers) often use hot melt glue to speed up production, most artisans steer clear of it.

​Irreversibility: Glue can be messy and permanent.

​Material Integrity: Applying hot glue to fine felt or silk liners can alter the texture and make future repairs difficult.

​Pro Tip: If you want a professional finish without the mess, skip the glue. Most enthusiasts agree: "Better nothing than glue." ​How to Stitch Like a Pro ​If you prefer the security of a fixed liner—common in vintage restoration—the secret is the invisible stitch. 1.  Use a Curved Needle: This is the essential tool for millinery. It allows you to maneuver in the tight space inside the crown. 2.  The "Catch" Technique: Use a loose basting stitch. The goal is to "catch" just a few fibers of the felt without the needle going all the way through to the outside of the hat. 3.  Study the Classics: If you're unsure of your stitch placement, look at vintage hats. Older craftsmanship often relied on minimal, strategic stitching that held the liner securely but allowed the hat to retain its natural flex. ​Final Thoughts ​Whether you choose to steam-fit a floating liner or use a curved needle for a traditional finish, the goal is the same: longevity and comfort. By avoiding heavy adhesives, you preserve the quality of the hat for years to come.